Historic English Costumes and How to Make Them by Talbot Hughes

Author:Talbot Hughes
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 9780486136356
Publisher: Dover Publications
Published: 2012-10-12T16:00:00+00:00

Plate XV. -(a) White Cloth Coat. 1775-90. (b) Silk Dress. 1740-60. (c) Embroidered Velvet Coat. 1755-75.

FIG. 62.

FIG. 63.

FIG. 64.

FIG. 65.

SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. CHARLES I. MALE.

The hair was worn loose to the shoulders, and a small plait was sometimes arranged on the left side, brought to the front of shoulder. The beard was trimmed to a pointed shape, and smarter curled moustaches were fashionable. Hats were still high in the crown, but rather lower than with James I; the large brims were turned about in various curves, and feathers were worn falling over the brims to the side or back.

The jerkin was high in the collar, supporting a large, square, turn-down collar edged with pointed lace to the shoulders, or a small, plain, turn-over collar; ruffs are very rarely seen after 1630.

A rather short waist grew shorter during this reign, with much larger tabs, or large flaps laced to the body, forming a series of bows with long gilt tags round the waist. The body is usually decorated with long slashes from the shoulders to the breast, or the full length, and a long slashed opening is often seen in the back (presumably to give more play to the sword-thrust). The sleeve is also treated in the same way to the elbow or waist. All sleeves start from a stiff epaulet. Breeches are both very full and fairly tight, the latter edged with a purfling of silk or gold lace as well as the sides, the former shape tied either above or below the knee with a large silk bow with falling ends. They were held up by a number of hooks, fastening to a small flap with eyelets, round the inside of the doublet (see pattern 11, p. 295), and were buttoned down the front, the buttons being half hidden in a pleat. The pockets were placed vertically in the front of the thigh, and were frequently of a decorative character.

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